OMAN

I experienced Muscat, not I checked a mosque list. One Shatti Al Qurum seaside hotel, a Friday that follows the city's own old-town rhythm, a genuine Saturday menu between sea and horse, and a Sunday that scales to the actual flight.

Frankincense country on Oman's southern coast: one Al Haffa base, a city day around the old port, an east loop through Wadi Darbat and the fishing forts of Taqa and Mirbat, and a west loop to Mughsail's blowholes and the ancient frankincense groves.